CLUTCH HELP

[wbcarver]

[ QUOTE ]
Leve,

At Autozone they only sell the individual components not an assembled unit.

Go figure.

However looks like mine will work now.

Brad

[/ QUOTE ]

So you got it working alright?

What did you have to do?

[RRich]

Under "normal" circumstances it should be self-bleeding.
Any air in the slave or lines tends to travel upwards.

A bubble in the slave gets disturbed when you operate the pedal, it gets sucked into the line. The line should not have any kinks or loops in it, the entire line slopes upwards. That lets the bubble slowly work it's way upward to the master, where it gets out.

It would be nice if brake lines worked the same way, but unfortunatly they have to go much farther and twist around things, causing places where the bubbles get trapped. That's why they aren't self bleeding.

[KentuckyCrawler]

Bill,

Well I went to work on some other small items and came back to it later. Pumped the heck out of the pedal and I guess worked the air out of it because I was getting better restriction and operation the longer I operated the pedal.

Brad

[wbcarver]

Cool deal.

That is probably exactly what happened.

Sometimes you get lucky like that.

Like RRich said, *in theory* they should self-bleed.
But in actual practice, we rarely have the time or patience to wait it out.

[RRich]

It shouldn't take but a few pumps - unless it's sucking air in at the slave.
Check to make sure there's a light spring on the slave, pulling it back. Sometimes the rebuilders or Chinese aftermarket folks don't put the spring inside, so use one externally.

Cups need a slight amount of pressure to keep the lips extended and sealed. That's why drum brakes use a light check valve to keep the pressure up a little.