I was just thinking about all the flat tow issues and it hit me that if you could put locking hubs on the rear then you would have all 4 wheels free of the drive train.
I have the warn full floaters in the rear, and I like them. Flat towing is a breeze, and they come in handy if you break a driveshaft. If you do them be very careful with the seals as they will leak if you don't do them correctly. There are two ways you can go with installation; Lubrication by grease, sealing the diff fluid out of the hubs or leaving the seals out and letting the hubs be lubed by the diff fluid. I did the latter as I am a Lazy
and don't want to grease the hub setup frequently, just change the diff fluid.
2 years ago, Currie built me a 9" and I decided not to do this. I decided not too because the hub would be the weak link in the setup. HOWEVER, I regret the decision because if I was blowing hubs, I could always switch over to drive flanges. This would then be slightly stronger than non full-float. Besides, swapping a hub if necessary is quick (most of the time you can continue on with 3wd anyhow).
If I could do it again, I would do the full float conversion with rear hubs (since I flat tow my Jeep anyplace longer than 100 miles). I still may do it since I don't plan to ever have a trailer (too wide/heavy/tall, storage, $$, etc).
Last I talked with Currie about this 2 weeks ago, the cost for this kit on a 9" was about $1k (afte the fact). It IS a bolt on kit. You save some money if you modify your drum at a machine shop yourself. So figure on $750-$800.
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