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  #1  
Old 09-29-2003, 03:55 PM
KenTheJeepGuy
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Default Rockwell \"Deuce and a half\" parts and info.

I am very close to purchasing a set of Rockwell 2.5ton Axles for my jeep.

This is obviously NOT my daily driver.

But anyway... Before i buy these i wanted to do a little research on them and what all i am getting myself into.

Does anyone know of some good websites with rockwell parts and prices?

do any of you here know alot about rockwells and willing to let me pick your brian?

does anyone know of a good rockwell guru who would be willing to talk with me about some details.

just a few of the things i need some answers to...

1. i have read that you can reverse the hubs on the front axle to narrow the wheel mounting depth by 5" on either side. but it requires "some machining" anyone know how much machining and how much this would cost, and who could do this?

2. if the front can be shortened in this way, is there an equivalent way to shorten the rear to match?

3. if i were to purchase 2 front axles, in hopes of one day converting to 4 wheel steer, is it possible to rig up the rear steering axle to not steer, like using a solid rod in place of the hydraulic ram.

4. how hard is it to rig these up to jeep steering linkage?

5. with significant anti-wrap measures, will these work decently with 4" arched leaf springs? (at least till i can afford to upgrade to a 4-link.

6. how hard are these to convert to a 4-link?

7. will power steering and a good pump and gear box turn these guys with big tires? or will i need hydraulic or hydraulic assist?

8. how much higher is the pinion above centerline on these as opposed to say a gm 14-bolt.

9. with the 9" of gearing and such sticking out above centerline, is there a way to avoid collision with the fuel tank, or are you forced to add alot of lift or just relocate the tank?

10. with axles like these, i assume axle droops is going to be alot more common than spring compression. in which case would center mounted rubber stops to prevent the guts from coliding with underbody pieces parts keep things under control?


(i presently have ALOT of room under the jeep (over 15" of lift above stock) My biggest and only real problems at this point are my driveshaft angles. which i assume will be GREATLY relieved by the fact of the much higher pinion on the rockwells.)
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  #2  
Old 09-29-2003, 10:46 PM
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Default Re: Rockwell \"Deuce and a half\" parts and info.

this is the only one that i have bookmarked, i know there are a few more. Try a search on POR.

http://adelmans.com/military.htm


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Old 09-30-2003, 01:57 PM
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Default Re: Rockwell \"Deuce and a half\" parts and info.

Here's some thoughts...

If your not looking at the axles, make sure the seller is talking about the 2.5 ton top loading axles, there are also ones that are similar to a 9” drop out center section and low pinion, that were in 2.5 GMC trucks, still strong axles but old and different…

>Does anyone know of some good websites with rockwell parts and prices?

Differential Engineering - Steve Gerstner
http://differentialeng.com/
Adelman’s Military Surplus
http://www.adelmans.com/military.htm
Wagoner Machine
http://www.wagonermachine.com/
Clark Truck Parts
http://www.clarktruck.com/
USA 6x6 - Daniel
http://usa6x6.com/
Memphis Equipment Company
http://www.memphisequipment.com/
Boyce Equpiment
http://www.boyceequipment.com/

http://www.chuckstrucks.net/PARTS_FOR_SALE.HTML

#1 - Basically it’s a clearance problem between the lug studs and the studs in the knuckles for the spindle, replace knuckle studs with bolts, you can clearance everything with a grinder, there is some picts on POR about this…

#2 - The back is already shortened, most 2.5 ton trucks are dually, therefore narrower to fit the 2 tires (i think…)

#3 - I would just run a standard rear until you have time to set up the rear steer properly

#5 - Yep, should be ok, if you run some good anti-wrap bars…

#6 - How much time you want to spend? Can you do most of the fabrication yourself?

#7 - If your running rockwells, your going to be running BIG tires, run the hydo assist, it will make a BIG difference

#8 - Centerline to top of diff: ~11"
Centerline to bottom of diff: ~6-6.5"

#9 – Actually think its more than 9” about the centerline…
Good question? Especially if you extend your wheelbase, relocation of the tank is the easiest answer…

I've got a huge word file around somewhere with alot of rockwell tech stuff I have collected...I'll see if i can find it...
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Old 09-30-2003, 06:56 PM
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Default Re: Rockwell \"Deuce and a half\" parts and info.

Wow, I like replies like that!!!

What do you do in Fairbanks??? I went to UAF for three years and my roomate will be going back up shortly. I wish I had know someone to wheel with up there. Ester dome and cushman flats got alot of use out of my jeep, would have nice to get more than 1 or 2 rigs on a trip though!

[img]images/graemlins/goodpost.gif[/img]
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Old 10-01-2003, 12:38 AM
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Default Re: Rockwell \"Deuce and a half\" parts and info.

Going to UAF, started graduate school here last fall...staying on campus in Wick. Yea down at the end of south cushman there seems to be tails shooting off everywhere.
Too bad my jeep is stil back in western NY...

Where are you now?
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Old 10-01-2003, 07:00 AM
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Default Re: Rockwell \"Deuce and a half\" parts and info.

I am living/working in ketchikan now. Not near as much jeepin' available to me down here!
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Old 10-01-2003, 04:04 PM
bigasschunk
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Default Re: Rockwell \"Deuce and a half\" parts and info.

Search the POR board.

to flip the hubs.

1) knock the studs out
2) take it to a machine shop with a BIG lathe
3) take 220 thousands off what was the outside surface of the hubs.
4) flip them around and re-install them with studs in the opposite directions.
5) I hope this makes since.

e-mail me if you have questions.

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Old 10-02-2003, 09:46 AM
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Default Re: Rockwell \"Deuce and a half\" parts and info.

Just did a jeep/buggy with 2.5 ton toploaders. Some pics can be seen here if you intersted. pics

As for your questions dont worry about the machining issue. There is an easier way. Let me go down you list though.

1. No machining, Pound out the studs, reverse them. Remove the spindle bolts and replace them with flush mount allen head bolts. You will have to buy a 15 dollar taper tool to get them to seat flush. (buy a good one the first one I wasted 5 bucks on because it sucked and had to go buy the good one for 15. The good one had multiple flutes on it) When you install the tapered bolts use some red locktight. The bolts I used where around 1" maybe 1.25" and used a 7/16 socket/allen wrench to install. Doing this leaves plenty of room.

2. Has been answered. Dualy so it is already short. Flipping the hubs would make it as wide as the front originally.

3. If i was going to do it over and didn't get a smoking deal on the front and rear I would have setup two fronts and made the rear fixed until I was ready to do rearsteer. Although if you get a good deal on a front a rear then pick up the second front later you have spare hubs and a spare chunk which is always nice.

4. The knuckles on the front rockwell can be swapped left to right so you can more the TR behind the axle if you go full hydro which is nice. The steering arm on the rockwell is the opposite of say a jeep because it points in toward the chunk. You can get an after market arm but they are pricey.

5. You will definately need significant antiwrap with leaves. But its been done and it works. The concern is axle wrap and the damage that can be done to the springs and stock hangers due to the weight of the rockwells and the new tires.

6. The rockwells aren't any harder to convert to 4 link than any other axle. Its working with the room and space you have on your current frame that can be a PITA.

7. Definatly think you will want hydro assist or if it is going to be a trail only rig full hydro. I went for full hydro because it was easier and not much more $$ once i sold my old parts.

8. already answered

9. I would just get a fuel cell. It will make it that much easier when you go to 4 link

10. Not sure what you mean. Bump stops in the normal location or there abouts would be good. Probably want some limiting straps

Your going to have to move the front axle forward, which will be some what of a pita because of spring hangers, unless you have a ton of lift which will make your COG probably higher than you want.

Dont waste the money on detriots just weld up the diffs. Thats my opinion. Especially with hydro steering. A detriot is still going to give you a plow effect when your on the gas so you might as well weld the diff and spend the money on the selectable hubs. You only really need one hub too if you can find just one.
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Old 10-02-2003, 04:50 PM
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Default Re: Rockwell \"Deuce and a half\" parts and info.

irjpr - I still haven't had a chance to get down to SE Alaska, from everything i've heard it pretty nice to visit. Got a friend in the building thats from Ketchikan

liquidkool - Nice Rig...Keep up the good work [img]images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]

I like the idea of flush mounting allen head bolts instead of grinding or machiening...I'll have to use that one someday when i can work on my junk again...
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Old 10-02-2003, 10:04 PM
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Default Re: Rockwell \"Deuce and a half\" parts and info.

Not to totally steal a post here...

Yea, Southeast is what I love about Alaska. The interior is really cool, and the west coast is, well it cool in its own way I guess, but Southeast is where I want to be for the rest of my time. Ketchikan is pretty cool, except the economy is pretty well in the dumps...

Who, if you don't mind me asking, do you know from K-town?? Its pretty small down here, most everybody knows everybody else.

Not sure if its still on campus or not, but there was an old powerwagon that some kid had as a daily driver, I can't tell you how many times I stared at that thing in awe....

Content related to post: Rockwells are cool, wish I had a couple for the CJ [img]images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]
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