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Old 01-16-2002, 12:28 AM
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Default Aluminum Valve Cover Installation-258

I'm replacing the original plastic valve cover on my 1984 258 with an aluminum cover. I have a couple of questions. This is the first time I've replaced a valve cover on a 258 and I read in the Clifford catalog that the five bolts running along the passenger side and in front & back are unthreaded???? I'm not sure what this means, but the original bolts on there now certainly have threads, but I've noticed that when they're tightened, they slip like they're stripped. I guess I'll need to tap the head when I install the new cover. Is this hard to do? Is there a danger of cracking the head? I was under the impression that the only drilling & tapping that would have to be done would be to secure the two smaller bolts along the driver's side of the block since my engine doesn't have these bolt holes. Is it unusual to have to tap the five larger bolt holes when installing an aluminum cover?

Also, should RTV be applied to both sides of the valve cover gasket? On other valve covers I've done, the gasket to head seal leaked without it, is this true with the 258?

Thanks for any help.

Texas1al

84 CJ-7; 258 I6; Stock Condition
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  #2  
Old 01-16-2002, 02:11 AM
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Default Re: Aluminum Valve Cover Installation-258

I've replaced a few covers and I've only had to tap the 2 holes on the drivers side. From memory, I think there's only 3 bolts on the passenger side and 1 in front and 1 in back. Stripped threads are not good. You may be able to go up a size or use an insert. Either way, you've got some work to do if the threads are stripped. I don't know how deep you can go before your into the water jacket.
I don't use RTV on anything. I hate that stuff. IMO it's the first sign of a hack-job when you see it oozing out of something. You don't see it coming out of the factory with blue goop do you?
My personnal favorite gasket dressing is Hylomar HPF, that and a good cork gasket will seal up the cover just fine.

CTjeepnut


You had to do what to fit those little tires?
I'm sure glad I own a CJ!
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Old 01-16-2002, 10:36 AM
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Default Re: Aluminum Valve Cover Installation-258

Thanks for the info CTjeepnut. The cover does have three bolts along the passenger size and one in front and one in back. 4 of these five seem to be stripped, so I'm in trouble. I'll probably try to go up a size with inserts being a lst resort.

Thanks again.


TEXAS1AL

84 CJ-7; 258 I6; Stock Condition
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Old 01-16-2002, 10:44 AM
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Default Re: Aluminum Valve Cover Installation-258

On my '82, I had to tap the 3 holes along the distributer side and the 2 along the carburator side. I didn't drill them out at all, just bought a bottom tap and cut as far as it would go.
If the holes are stripped, you may need to insert a heli-coil to restore the treads. Don't drill any deeper than the hole is already, or you will be into the water jacket.

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Old 01-16-2002, 11:21 AM
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Default Re: Aluminum Valve Cover Installation-258

Thanks Atilla. The threads appear to be slightly stripped, in other words, some shallow thread remaining. Do you recommend retapping them for a larger bolt size or using the heli-coils? How do the coils work, how do you get them down in the holes? Are they strong enough to support the measily 10lbs torque?



TEXAS1AL

84 CJ-7; 258 I6; Stock Condition
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Old 01-16-2002, 11:31 AM
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Default Re: Aluminum Valve Cover Installation-258

I think that there is an aluminum cover from Westside that doesn't use any bolts to hold it down. It's held down by the orignal 2 bolts on top of the bridged rocker brackets. That way you don't have to deal with stripped threads.

CTjeepnut

You had to do what to fit those little tires?
I'm sure glad I own a CJ!
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Old 01-16-2002, 11:56 AM
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Default Re: Aluminum Valve Cover Installation-258

A helicoil is just a coil of threads (like a slinky). You drill the hole larger, tap it to the larger size, tread the helicoil in, and cut off what is left sticking out the hole. You now have new treads of the original size. They will hold great amounts of torque. I would look at the cover to see if there is room for larger size bolts and go that route if possible. I also remember seeing some "threadmaker" goop at a parts store a long time ago. It was like a paste that you put in the hole, stuck the bolt in and let it dry. Don't know any more than that though.

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Old 01-16-2002, 12:31 PM
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Default Re: Aluminum Valve Cover Installation-258

Thanks Atila

TEXAS1AL

84 CJ-7; 258 I6; Stock Condition
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Old 01-16-2002, 05:55 PM
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Default Re: Aluminum Valve Cover Installation-258

Hey Tex,
Listen to CTjeepnut about Westside performance' aluminum valve cover. I installed the Clifford aluminum valve cover back in '92 and my Jeep ran like junk until I replaced it with the Westside cover in '99. It has considerable R&D going into the design so you don't have to fool with retapping holes and the like. Your case may be different since your bolts are already suspect. Give Westside a call, they were very helpful in explaining the difference in their product and its benefits. My mechanic said the install was a cinch. Hope this helps.


84RENEGADE
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Old 01-17-2002, 12:26 AM
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Default Re: Aluminum Valve Cover Installation-258

I GOTTA ask. Consider me a neophyte on this one. How can the size/design of a valve cover affect the way an engine runs? Is its primary job just not to let oil or crank case pressure escape uncontrolled? Am I missing something, or is this like saying "Man that performance oil pan really did the trick". Aside from volume and installation methods I can't really see a difference in these, is there?

'83 CJ-7 nothing original but the tub and axle tubes
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