ELECTRICAL NIGHTMARE NOTHING ON DASH WORKS! HELP!

Hi everyone, nice to join the forums, new jeep owner.

here is the deal.
I have a 1989 jeep cherokee sport with the 4.0 inline 6. Between my yard and the previous owner, it has been sitting for almost 2 and 1/2 years!!

I got it running like a week ago, needed a fuel pump, fuel filter, an oil change, and some antifreeze and it was good to go. It takes alot of cranking to turn over, but i'm really not worried about that.

My problem is electrical.
The headlights work, and they will also switch from high beams to low beams, tail lights work , brake lights work, hazzards will flash, blinkers will not. Windows roll up and down too, however slowly.

Here are the problems (all on the dash):
-everything in the wiper handle doesn't work ie. Wipers, blinkers, sprayer.(except the previously mentioned high beam/low beam switch
-The blower fan doesn't work (it takes a 25A fuse, i noticed it was blown, and i didn't have a 25 on hand, i put a 20 in, and it blew, so that hasn't had thorough examination yet)
- No horn
- No radio
- no back wiper
- No instrument panel lights (however the taillights do work)
- No cigarette lighter
(keep in mind all these things are on the dash)
This is not on the dash and does not work:
-Dome light

Here is what does work on the dash:
-The hazards worked on the hazzard switch (remember they didn't work as blinkers.)
-the blue dash light indicating the high beams work
-One green flasher dash light worked (pass side, i am assuming the other is blown)
-Part time transmission indicator light was on.
-The rear defogger (i am not sure as to the function of the actual defogger but at least the light on the dash comes on)
-The glove compartment light does come on...lol
-The switch for the trannie (power/comfort) has a light that comes on

My chiltons manual covers models cherokee/commanche and wagoneer from years 1984-1998, so you can just imagine how helpful it is....

It has 3 diagrams for fuse boxes, but doesn't even specify what fuse box goes with what model years ECT.
I checked all the fuses in the under dash fuse box, and the only one blown was the one labeled "blower"
Anyway, after going out and writing down all the names for fuses here there are with their corresponding amperage, unless i fudged something up:
ACC - 10
FL/PASS - 15
RR WIPE - 25
BLOWER - 25 (EMPTY) (FUSE BLOWN, REMEMBER?)
ABS IGN - 2 (NO METAL LEADS INSIDE)
TURN/BU(BACKUP) - 20
DOME - 10
HZ/STOP - 15
HD LP DLY (HEAD LAMP DELAY...I THINK) - 25
BATT - ONE LEAD, NO WIRE COMING OUT OF IT
ABS BATT - (NO METAL LEADS INSIDE)
TRANS - 7.5
ANT - 10
PRK LMPS - 10
GAGUES - 7.5
INST LAMPS - 5
POWER - (ONE LEAD) VIOLET WIRE CONNECTED
ACC - (ONE LEAD) BLUE WIRE CONNECTED
HAZ - (ONE LEAD) RED WIRE CONNECTED
HTD WDW - 25

All the fuses that were present were pulled and checked (the only one not present was the blower).
There were also three larger metal boxes present....what are these, should i check them? and how?

I checked the power distribution box under hood, the chiltons manual said that "the fuse and relay identifications should be illustrated on the underside of the box lid". yeah my @$$ it is.

Anyway, there seems to be no fuses under there, but 4 or 5 of those cubes with 5 leads on them....i am assuming relays. Would any of them be causing my nightmares?
Sorry i can't get any labels for those thingies.

Anyway, i am led to believe that the fuse box does have power, because the headlights/taillights/hazzards all came on and they all run through the fuse box. My problem SEEMS to be isolated to most of the dashboard components. Any ideas? maybe a big dashboard ground or something? I'm a little lost here, and before i start ripping the whole dash apart, i was hoping to get some insight on the matter.

if this post would be better placed in general tech, or something, just let the new guy know...

Sorry for such a long post, and thanks in advance for the help.

[JohnXJ]

Check for bad grounds and electrical connectors under the dash. The short in the blower motor may be sucking up too much power to allow other things to work. Check the bigass electrical connector right at the engine side of the firewall on the driver side.

[NIX]

I would suspect the connectors also. Clean them, as they can corrode a bit.

Did you pull the instrumentcluster? I had to replace almost all the bulbs.

The blower issue can also be caused in the resistorblock in the switch.

The flasher for the blinkers is a different one than the hazard flasher. Switch them (the round things on the fuseblock) to find out if it's the flasher or the switch. If you need to get at the connector or switch this site may be of help.

The slow windows are most likely caused by dried out lubricant. The units can be opened and cleaned, if some violence and creativity are used.

Just replacing fuses isn't always enough as the fuse block is right under the master brake cilinder. Terminals can be corroded badly, have no tension or wires can be corroded loose. The backside of the fusebox holds a connector in the enginebay. Not a nice job to check, but you have not so much choice. Beware there's 4 little angles at the corners to fit the connector right in the fuse block. They can be squeezed, so the connector doesn't fit all the way or water or breakfluid can find it's way in very easily.

[ QUOTE ]
- No horn
- No radio
- no back wiper
- No instrument panel lights (however the taillights do work)
- No cigarette lighter
(keep in mind all these things are on the dash)
This is not on the dash and does not work:
-Dome light


[/ QUOTE ]
This combo makes me suspect a fuse or the wire coming to or from the fuse block.

Those cubes you mentioned are relays. To find out if they are allright, switch 2 and find out what changes. They are quite cheap new or (almost) free at the upullit.

For general info and to locate some more electrical components, download the '88 FSM . It will work for your '89...

Don't be surprised to find that resident rodents have made some mods to wiring. You did post that it has sat outside for 2 years +/-.