jeep rebuild and tubed... sp?... wheelwells

[uspsamaster]

Still rebuilding the 88 (slowwwwwly) getting closer though (local yards don't have many xj's so I am having a hard time finding parts).
Today while wheeling the 92 I got to thinking about the possibility of doing a tub job on the 88s wheel wells like is done on mustangs, only more with a exo would it be possible to really open up the wheelwells and weld in tubs to fill in the holes. I am thinking full width ford d44hd/d60 front and 60/shaved gm 14bff rear. I am hopeing for about 37-40" tires on 6" lift the closest I have seen to this is in jp magazine with the xj on 49" with rockwells but he replaced the lower half of the jeep with a tube frame and 3 or 4 link rear end, I want to keep the rear leafs.
Also with full width axles can high backspacing rims (5-6" or even hummer 7" on 16 1/2" rims) be used to keep the width narrow? On big stuff they don't use them for fender clearance but can I? I know it won't be legal and don't care I have the 92 for that.
Anyone got some pics of this done? and Thanks for the last years worth of great and informative reading to all who post here. also feel free to chime in with your ideas on the set up. Thanks

[athlonaj]

Is that all? Just kidding. I like your thinking of keeping the COG low, trimming/rebuilding as much as possible with the least amount of lift. Is your 88 a 2 or 4 door. I could easily see this being accomplished with a 2 door, obviously the 4 dr gets a little bit harder. I know you can get the 37" tire on with that much lift but the 40 might be pushing it a little bit at full stuff...then again I think it can be done. The wheeltub idea is one I plan on doing when time allows since they are easy to make/cheap to buy. In your case I think you'll be better off doing more of a competition type cut straight back from the top of the wheel well or something and forget about it arching downward. Yank the tank in place of a fuel cell higher up or relocate the stocker up higher and you should make it.

[INFAMOUSBUTCHER]

i agree with aj relocate yer gas tank and just cut off the rear quater panels and open it up all the way back and with 40" tires imo you should inboard your rear leafs and flip them around to give you i do believe about 6" more in your wheelbase to make it about 107-108 give or take a few inches if you do this youll notice when going up and down steep hills/climbs youll feel much more stable. also with the inboarded rear leafs youll get just as much flex as a link type setup and you also by inboarding them under the frame rails will be able to use the leafs you have now and just add a few stiff leafs (i would just get another set of stock rears and ad as you need) becuase putting them under the frame rails gives you around 5" of lift compared to stock and its stupid simple and CHEAP

go with the 14 bolt or a d70 for the rear, a d70 and 14b make the d60 look like a baby. also if shaven youll just as much clearance as a d60 but if you decide to get crazy shaving it you can take some off the ring gear and get a tiny bit more clearance than a d60

[et89xj]

I will be boxing in my rear wheel wells this winter, hopefully wih the help of a certen bumper man [img]images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]. At this time the frame will be boxed and plated from the front LCAs to to a new rear cross member. My 35s need a lil more room to move up and stop grabing my inner wells(not a good noise plus they make me get stuck in slow going maxed flexed out mall crawling [img]images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]. I say the 14bolt, never realy liked the d70 too much too big of hubs for my skinny butt to lug around all the time when doing seals. I will be running Gwaggy d44s, like the size and weight of them, plus I still DD mine everyday(atleast till I can shove my spare 4Li6/aw-4/242 into it [img]images/graemlins/beach.gif[/img])...andy

[uspsamaster]

Butcher, in your post of frames you talked about adding a sleave. I did the search and can find no information on this what is it and how is it done?