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Jeep-Mid-Sized All discussion of mid-sized Jeeps: Cherokee, Grand Cherokee

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  #1  
Old 12-26-2001, 01:25 PM
**DONOTDELETE**
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Default Crank censor

Has anybody had any experience with the crank position censor? I have herd from somewhere that when it goes out, the Jeep will not move. The motor will just keep cranking over and will not start. Where can I get one online that is cheeper than a dealer?
Will the AX-15 bolt up to the bellhousing from the Pegeot BA 10/5 or do I need to get the bellhousing along with the AX-15? Are the output shaft spline counts the same for the AW-4 and the AX-15?


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  #2  
Old 12-26-2001, 02:45 PM
Carpal \'Tunnel
 
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: Near Chicago, IL
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Default Re: Crank censor

I'm pretty sure you need the bell from the AX-15.

"Every form of refuge has it's price."
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  #3  
Old 12-26-2001, 03:13 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Iowa
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Default Re: Crank censor

Not sure of any online sources that are much cheaper at all for the CPS once you figure in shipping. I hope there is though. And if you do get a new one you might want to consider getting the high altitude CPS which will advance your timing slightly giving you a little added performance depending on what other mods you have.

If you haven't tried it already, mess with the connector going to the CPS before buying a new one. Unplug it and clean it up, plug it back in, see if it works. That plug has caused a few problems.

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  #4  
Old 12-26-2001, 04:58 PM
Carpal \'Tunnel
 
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Southern Wisconsin
Posts: 2,698
Chris_MJ is an unknown quantity at this point
Default Re: Crank censor

All AX-15s have a 1 1/8" 10 spline input shaft and a 23 spine output shaft for 4 or 6 cyliner. You can count your AW-4. The tech page doesn't say.

Just because I don't care doesn't mean I don't understand!
'88 MJ SporTruck shortbed
Rebuilt 2.5L: 40 over rings, 10 on crank, 10 on bearings
nearing 400K
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  #5  
Old 12-28-2001, 12:53 AM
**DONOTDELETE**
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Default Re: Crank censor

If your CPS is bad...the engine will not start...the computer has no way of knowing the position of the crank shaft...The CPS is easy to test...Use and ohm meter to measure the resistance...I believe it is supposed to be about 10 ohms. If its open, replace it. Kragens wanted $39 and 5 days to get it...the dealer was $42 and had it in stock. I am begining to find that dealer parts might be more expensive...but cheaper in the long run....especially if you have to replace it a few times....

John...southern CA
84CJ7, 3"lift, 32"BFG, 4.10's, ARB Rear, Detroit Front, Solid Axle's, Durabak, York Air

They say we learn by our mistakes......I guess thats why we are all so smart.
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  #6  
Old 12-28-2001, 12:16 PM
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Location: Southeast PA
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Default Re: Crank censor

I had it die about a year ago. Prime indicator that it's going: While crusing along on the highway, your tach will drop down to zero RPMs for a second and then right back up again to crusing speed. I thought there was a problem with my gauge because the engine seemed unaffected. It happened while driving, while cruising along on the interstate, the engine just died. Towed it to the dealer (dealer was closer than my house) and diagnosed and fixed the problem within an hour. Total cost under $100.

Jon

'95 Cherokee Sport
'73 Commando
'00 Wrangler - sold
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