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IH Scout & Trucks Discussion of International Harvester, 4-Wheel Drive Truck and Scout Vehicles

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post #21 of (permalink) Old 01-27-2013, 04:41 AM Thread Starter
mut
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Time lapse; cleaned up painted engine compartment; drive train in compartment; brackets installed to hold weight; a good cleaning/polishing.
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Last edited by mut; 01-27-2013 at 04:44 AM.
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post #22 of (permalink) Old 01-27-2013, 04:54 AM Thread Starter
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After installing the engine I wanted to see if it would crank over. Of course NOT, why would life be that good? I ended up looking into the wiring of the Scout and decided that with half the connectors being melted, about half a dozen wires not connected or present, and about the same number with splices or but connections on them from other re-work it was time that the Scout received a new nervous system.
I took my time and labeled every connector and wire that I removed and found it on the schematics that the repair manual has in it.
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post #23 of (permalink) Old 01-27-2013, 04:57 AM Thread Starter
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I then purchased some general wire at different gauges. I continued to look for better parts and ended up purchasing a whole new setup for the Scout. A little pricey but I believe it will perform beyond the Scout’s needs and allow me to have room to expand. It took a couple of days, a lot of patience, scanning and color coding the wires as I installed the, but the wiring got 98% complete.
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post #24 of (permalink) Old 01-27-2013, 04:59 AM Thread Starter
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Over kill gauges and nice parts I installed the main feed from the battery to the Cab.
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post #25 of (permalink) Old 01-27-2013, 05:02 AM Thread Starter
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Got a couple distribution blocks for grounds and +12V when the truck is on. Installed a fused panel for components for when the truck is on, and a few for when the truck is not on or even ACC power. I can use these fused panels for a CB, the Radio, Extra lights, anything I want to have power to it weather the truck is ON, switched to ACC, or even OFF.
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post #26 of (permalink) Old 03-29-2013, 08:57 PM Thread Starter
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wiring complete

The completion of the wiring… well that is a lie. The completion of the wiring in the dash, that’s more like it, has been completed. New wiring goes thru a large main fuse and thru the firewall where I break it up to go to 3 different locations. The first 2 spots are fuse panels that will always have power available to them. One for the relays for various items that I want to have available even with the truck off, such as radio, aux. lights, CB, etc. The second fuse panel will be for the switches that activate the relays for the various always available devices.
The third leg of the main wiring goes to a solenoid that is activated by the ignition switch. This solenoid will feed a fuse panel for the normal items that only have power when ignition is on; headlights, heater, window wiper motor, etc.
All the interconnections that need to be done in the dash have been completed and everything has been loomed in quick access wire -loom. The re-wiring has stopped for a bit at the fire-wall and other strategic points for now; I am waiting on parts to finish the dash and I have other goals for what is outside the cab area.
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post #27 of (permalink) Old 03-30-2013, 12:56 AM Thread Starter
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Body Bushings

Ordered from energy suspensions; came with everything needed except new bolts; which is fine for me cause I am not sure they would have sent grade 8 plated bolts. I took a measurement of the smallest holed washer and it turned out to be 7/16”. I went to Copper State nut and bolt and got me 8 sets of 7/16” plated gade 8 bolts with 2 washers each and an all metal lock nut. I measured a bolt from the front floorboard mount and it was about 2.5” long, compared that with the new bushings and washers and decided that that size would work perfect. I also checked on what bolts I would need to replace the ones for the springs and grabbed them too (7/16” 2.5” long with 2 washers and an all metal locking nut), So 20+ sets of the these from the store and back to installing on the Scout. I forgot to remove the fan/fan shroud so while installing the new bushings, which involved jacking up the body on one side of the truck at a time, I inevitably broke the fan shroud (again – it had been broken in the past). After getting the front 2 mounts redone I ran into my first snag; the center rear bolt had to be longer, the second snag was that the rear mount needed longer as well. One more trip to Copper State I got a couple different sizes for the center rear and I got the proper size for the rear. I had to help the center rear bolts thru the holes due to a slight alignment issue. Once I had that bolt installed and the rear bolt installed; I completed the both sides fairly quickly.
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post #28 of (permalink) Old 03-30-2013, 01:01 AM Thread Starter
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Drive Shafts

I took the Scout to a local driveshaft shop; and they had some changes to my original setup for things under the Scout. First they asked if I could tilt the rear end up some to help with the angle that it had, second the guy said I would have clearance issues in the front with the way it was setup. So I took the scout home and decided that the tilt of the rear axle would be easy with just some shims 6* shims. I measured the width of the spring pack and it was 2”, I contacted a local place that was suggested by the driveshaft shop it was titled along the lines of “custom automotive metal fabrication”. I asked if they had 6* shims for a rear axle; they said that they did and that they were [something cheaper than anything I had seen online] so I got excited. I then asked them for the widths that were available and I was told 2.5”. I asked if they could narrow them to 2” and they said “No”. WHAT!?!? A custom metal shop could not cut off .25” from either side of an aluminum wedge? In my frustration I hit the internet again and found Tough Country made exactly what I should have been looking for all along; solid steel 2” wide 6* shims with new centering pins; these were quite affordable (not quite as cheap as the local store but cheaper than anything else I could find on the net) and were exactly (in my mind) what the Scout deserves. I ordered them and waited. It did not take them long to arrive; and after arrival it did not take me long to realize I needed other parts on the Scout. I removed the passenger rear leaf spring pack and that is when I found out that the bushings for the springs/shackles were done in. No problem I told myself I will order a full set for the Scout, Front and Rear. While I was ordering the shims I placed an order for body bushings which came in as well.
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post #29 of (permalink) Old 03-30-2013, 01:06 AM Thread Starter
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Spring Bushings

With the passenger rear spring pack off I had to remove the old bushings and install the new ones I got from Energy Suspensions. They had a waiting time for the red bushings so I went with black (probably a better choice for the springs anyway). I had difficulties removing the metal outer sleeve for the driver rear and passenger front shackle, but all the other bushing and bushing paraphilia came out without much of a problem. Good thing I got new bolts some of these were ready to shear off and leave me stranded; not that I have driven the Scout (much) but one day… So back to the shims now that the bushings are completed on the front and the back passenger, I clamp the spring pack and remove the original alignment bolt to find that the hole is quite a bit smaller than the new alignment bolt is. Got the drill, some cutting oil, and a few newly sharpened bits and went to work; once I got the holes drilled and the shim anchored with the new alignment pin installing the spring pack back in the Scout was painless. Driver side completed and off to the driveshaft shop again. This time the tech said that the cross member (although lower) is still too high, I was prepared for this and already have a solution – I just did not want to have to do it due to wanting the most clearance I could get. Now this time the Tech likes the rear angle but still decides that a CV is needed on the output of the x-fer. There is no CV output yoke for a 203so he was going to install a 205 output CV yoke on the rear of the 203 and get a new seal to close it up but with the Scout in their shop for 2 days they had no answer for the seal. I called a different driveshaft shop and the guy on the phone said that they know what needs to be done to get the 205 CV yoke on the 203 and what seal needs to be used. I picked up the Scout and took it over to the other shop and let them have it (once I lowered the x-fer x-member some more). 2 days later I was able to pick it up.
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post #30 of (permalink) Old 03-30-2013, 01:10 AM Thread Starter
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Exhaust

With drive shafts on the Scout I was able to start it up in the parking lot of the Drive Shaft shop (no exhaust just headers) and drove it onto the trailer! Making great headway with the project. I took the Scout directly to a muffler shop and had them install the exhaust (mostly due to the bends – I could have welded it); I supplied collectors and gaskets and cherry bombs. I told the guy what I wanted and where I wanted it ran he replied with a no problem and a price, a little negotiation over the diameter of the pipe and the Scout was now in their capable hands. They said it would be done the next day but I decided I needed a day off from the Scout and went rhomping with my friend with my ‘roided out golf cart and his 2500 burban. I went to the exhaust shop and got the Scout the next day and started it up… it is great sounding; even with very short exhaust and just cherry bombs for mufflers and true dual it is quiet.
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