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07-07-2009, 07:32 PM
| | Newbie | | Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: ab,canada
Posts: 12
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thanks but texas but i found what i was looking for, i just went and bought one of those repair manuals so soon i should have all the wiring fixed! just wondering if anyone on here has a rear window motor for sale or know anything that will work so i can get it open and closed?
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07-11-2009, 12:30 AM
| | Novice | | Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: slaton texas, on the bottom of panhandel
Posts: 47
| | window motor
if you pull the motor you can push/pull the window up/ down. be careful without the motor the window will move and it will hurt if your hands are still in the way of the arms, trust me i did it. i had the tail gate down. once the motor is out (hopefully with your fingers still attached) push the window all the way in when you close the tailgate, the window will pop up a little bit and you can push/pull it all the way up. my son drove his like that for about 6 months.then he got a newer tail gate with defrost on it.
mike
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07-12-2009, 12:16 PM
| | Newbie | | Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: ab,canada
Posts: 12
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k sweet stuff, after looking a little more the bolts for the motor arent there, so maybe if i bolt it up it will work better? it was pretty seized and me and a bud worked it till it goes up and down decent, we broke a bolt for the arms to the window tho, but that seems like a easy fix, no only need to get the reverse lights working, clearnce lights working again, and the wiper motor to spit fluid and im ready for inspection!
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07-12-2009, 01:17 PM
| | Novice | | Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: slaton texas, on the bottom of panhandel
Posts: 47
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cool, sometimes the light wires are a littledried out and break.or it could be the pluginfor the trailer lights giving you the problem. good luck!
mike
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07-14-2009, 08:27 PM
| | Newbie | | Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: ab,canada
Posts: 12
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yeah i just took of the trailer wiring when i first got it, fixed those problems just gotta figure out why the head lights are not geting power, and go buy a new brake line for the rear and she's good to go, plan and getting some good muddin pics to post up soon | 
07-20-2009, 02:53 PM
| | Newbie | | Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: ab,canada
Posts: 12
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k so plans have changed and im gonna go bigger with this bad boy, im thinking a 12" lift and throwing some 44s under it, whats gonna be the best set up, im thinking getting some one ton axles with dana 60 front end and gm 14 bolt rear end, not sure what gearing tho, let me know what you guys think, and if theres better rear or front end to use, and what is the best way to achieve that kind of lift?
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07-20-2009, 03:48 PM
|  | Journeyman | | Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Dayton, WA from Othello, WA
Posts: 122
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14FF & D60 are your best bet for bolt-in goodness. Try and get'em out of a CUCV and the 14FF will have a Detroit Locker in it and the right carrier for the gears you'll want to turn the 44s (something in the neighborhood of 5.13:1).
For the lift...I don't know. Easiest would probably be 12" lift springs, but those don't flex much and ride like ass. If you could do things that would reduce the amount of lift required by the springs, you'd be in better shape.
I've seen a lot of hack jobs on the front end of vehicles. If you could tastefully come up with (or find pics of one someone else has done) a dropped front crossmember that would incorporate a new lower spring mounting point, that's is a good start.
For the rear ORD Online Catalog - 4x4 Suspensions, Parts and Performance makes some good things for that. You can get 4" out of a shackle flip kit, then they also have some heavy duty shackles that are longer than factory. They might be a good one to call and ask for advice.
__________________
Devin
2007 GMC Sierra Classic 2500HD SLT, 4x4, EC/LB, LBZ/ Allison, Summit White with Charcoal Leather, dealer installed Westin Platinum Series bars and a Line-X. R.I.P. Jason (willyswanter) Payne | 
07-21-2009, 12:39 AM
| | Newbie | | Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: ab,canada
Posts: 12
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12'' also makes it impossible to stick with your stock rear springs. 8'' is about the maximum you can go. what you can do is either get 4'' lift springs with 4'' blocks and a 6'' shackle flip (better) , or get an 8'' spring with a 6'' shackle flip (best), or just 12'' springs with no shackle flip. the easiest way to go but you will have absolutely no flex out of these springs trust me. -- thats something i found from cardomain, what do you think?
Edit- after looking around i had trouble finding a 6" shackle flip, i did find a 4 inch tho, so 10" springs and 4" shackle would achieve what i want, correct? can you do the shackle flip on the front to?
Last edited by kaelshort; 07-21-2009 at 02:06 PM.
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07-22-2009, 12:23 PM
| | Newbie | | Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: ab,canada
Posts: 12
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just wondering whats a good price for 14ff and i d60, i got a guy selling dana 60 front 14 bolt locker full floater rear 4.10s and not sure what to offer
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07-22-2009, 09:57 PM
| | Newbie | | Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: ab,canada
Posts: 12
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well seems like i changed my mind again, but this time ive auctally made a order, ordered up a set of 24" lift Front Springs & Rear Springs from customsuspension.com and im planning on getting some 49" iroks to go with them, is the d60 and 14ff still gonna be the best bet, and what gearing am i gonna need?
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