Re: BALL JOINTS ON K1500
Ok, I just did this to my 94 this weekend, it was a lot of work. I changed them on my little brother's S10 this summer and I could get that done in a morning now. Mine were the original factory ball joints so they were riveted in.( why did they have to rivet them in?) It took forever to do the one side, and I had no luck getting the rivets out on the drivers side. I had it towed to the alignment shop, because I couldn't put the rim back on the way it was. The guy there had a air chisel with a punch bit,( I have the chisel, but no punch bit.) He knocked them out real quick and I put everything back together in the parking lot in no time. Look to see if they are bolted in or riveted. If bolted, it is real easy. You need a ball joint seperator( big fork, which I also used for the tie rod.) and a 36mm socket to take the nut off of the front hub. other than that there are no special tools to change them. To awnser your original question, I notice mine getting bad last october( driving through fields hunting wasn't good for the boots) and knew I had to make it through the winter. My steering got real sloppy though. I was impressed with the factory parts 143,000 miles, my old S10 has had two sets in that time. I bought all the parts from Carparts.Com for $200( 4 balljoints, uppers and lowers, pitman arm, and idler arm. I am glad I did most of the work, I saved a lot of money that way.
94 K1500 Z71