<font color=purple>Unless you already have a 283 or will be handicapped by displacement, I can't recommend setting up your machine with this motor. A 283 weighs as much as a 400 small-block, without providing the same power potential. I'd go for at LEAST a 350 if I was you. BTW, what sort of racing are you planning to do? </font color=purple>
I have a 283 in my YJ with a TH350. If you are using the stock heads be sure you put hardened seats in, since they ran leaded
fuel back in the 60's. I have a set of late model 305 heads on mine (with the accessory bolts, which come in handy). Overall, I
feel it's got some power and it has a strong short stroke, .5 inches shorter than the 350.
(Let's see if I remember my Chevy stuff here...) If I was going to build a short-stroke race motor like that, I would use the 283 crank in an appropriate 350 block (or any 4 inch bore small block), thus giving me a 4 inch bore and 3 inch stroke. An RPM monster there! Some good stiff valve springs and some girdles for the valve train, solid lifters (or solid roller!), forged pistons, a good lumpy cam...
Woohoo! 9000 RPM all day! I'm sure I'm missing a lot of stuff here - it's been a while since I put this engine together in my head. Hell, it's been a while since I even owned my own Chevy.
For reliability, I would suggest going with a mildly built 350. 325-350 horse will move your Samurai like it's got rockets strapped to the roof. Get yourself a Chevy crate engine, change the cam, put a good dual plane high-rise intake and 650cfm carb with a blueprinted HEI, and you're in business.
<font color=purple>Yeah, that makes a 302 if it's stock-bore. Or, you could bore the sh1t out of a 283 for the same effect (yes, you CAN bore a 283 that far). Similar to this is a 400 bored .030 over & destroked 1/2" to 3.25" (327 crank) for a final displacement of 358" (NASCAR). Use some 6.3" rods from a 300 F*** inline 6 & you've got a real revver!
You still didn't specify what TYPE of racing, but it sort of sounds like Tough Truck stuff. If so, you'll want to get as much weight off the front axle as possible. Use aluminum heads, relocate the battery, & take out anything that's not absolutely essential (or required by rules). Your stock Sammi axles will soon be toast under the abuse of a V-8 & airborn antics, BTW. </font color=purple>
Alright I've got a 350 stroked w/a 400 crank not much on builing chevys.I need to know the best way to set this motor up for longevity!I will be happy with 200-225 hp.I think I can possibly survive without to much long term suffering.Any help would be appreciated.
If you are only wanting 200-225 horse power, you can build any small block, a 350 being the cheapest. The stock GM crate motors are rated at 205 hoarse power. I know a friend with one, it runs good, hard to believe it is only rated at 205. If weight is a problem, you could probally build a 4.3 for that power!
<font color=purple>I second that. You'd have a hard time NOT getting 225HP out of a 350 (or even a decent 4.3), much less a 383. If that's the power range you want, you couldn't possibly do it cheaper than with a 350. </font color=purple>
As long as that thisg was built right, I agree with the general sentiment - if you only get 200-225 hp out of it, something is seriously wrong! If it'a a solid longblock, just slap on a dual plane manifold, HEI, a 600-650cfm carb along with 1 5/8" - 1 3/4" inch primary headers into 3 inch collecters (reduce this to 2.5 inch dual or 3 inch single exhaust). You'll have yourself a real torquer. Better start replacing the rest of the drivetrain!
I suggest this because if you're not familiar with what the engine was built with, high rpm might not be advisable. Could very likely end up with floating valves, busted pistons (if they're cast), or just the wrong cam or something for what you want (for that matter, this could happen with either route). If you know who built the engine, get the specifics of what it has and let us know.