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  #1  
Old 11-28-1999, 09:18 PM
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Default 10 bolt front / 12 bolt rear ok for 38\" tires

I have a 79 1/2 ton with 10 bolt front and 12 bolt rearend. I am wondering if they are strong enough for 38" tires. 4x4 power magazine says no, but they also were building a bullet proof setup. Do you guys feel this is an ok setup? I have not purchased the wheels or tires yet, so I can still swap for a 3/4 or 1 ton. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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  #2  
Old 11-28-1999, 09:43 PM
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Default Re: 10 bolt front / 12 bolt rear ok for 38\" tires

NO! The 12 bolt would be marginal and the 10 bolt is a no-no. If it were me I would do a 14 bolt or D60 rear and a D60 front.

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  #3  
Old 11-28-1999, 09:48 PM
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Default Re: 10 bolt front / 12 bolt rear ok for 38\" tires

It depends on what you do, Shaggy has a 10 bolt or D44 upfront and runs 38's. He has broken a shaft once, but replaced all shafts with ORD's chromemoly shafts. I think that a good 10 bolt with the ORD shafts and good components should work fine. If you run the factory shafts in the 10 bolt, you will break stuff sooner or later. The 12 bolt should be ok, but you may want to beef it up a little. I'm not too sure what can be done to strengthen the 12 bolt though. If you can afford it, definitely go for a D44 or more up front and a FF 14 bolt in the rear. Just my .02 (everyone says that on this bbs lately)

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Old 11-29-1999, 01:23 AM
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Default Re: 10 bolt front / 12 bolt rear ok for 38\" tires

Like Small Block said, I run a Dana 44 in the front and a 12bolt in the rear on my truck. The reason that I did not "upgrade" to a D60 and a 14 bolt is because of the weight penalty, the bead characteristics of 16.5" tires and rims (you can't safely air them down), and the lack of ground clearance afforded by the 1-ton axles. That and the Dana 60s are really expensive around here. The ORD chromoly shafts are actually stronger than stock Dana 60 shafts, and as far as the rear goes, I upgraded to Moser alloy shafts and prayer. I also have LSDs in both ends that are reputed for their strength. My engine is a mild small block, and if I were to run a big block, I would have upgraded to the 1-ton axles. In addition, I keep my throttle foot in check. Anyways, in answer to your question, I DO think that the 10 bolt could be strong enough to use 38's on IF you do the following to it- Use a strong aftermarket Dana 44 carrier such as a Detroit or a Powr-Loc in it (it can be done although I don't know the specifics), this will give you 30 spline shafts instead of 27 splines, and allow you to use ORD's Dana 44 shafts. You could do this, but it would probably be easier to find a used Dana 44 in a junkyard to start with. Change the carrier in the back to something stronger than stock, as the carrier is the first thing to go in a 12 bolt, and also get some good aftermarket alloy shafts. Of course, after spending all this money, you could also have upgraded to 1-ton axles. So upgrade your current axles if you care about the issues I mentioned above or don't want to spend a fortune all at once, but if you really abuse your truck and want the ultimate in strength, go for the 1-ton gear.

<font color=black>Evan</font color=black>
<font color=red>http://contagious-racing.8m.com</font color=red>
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  #5  
Old 11-29-1999, 01:25 AM
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Default Re: 10 bolt front / 12 bolt rear ok for 38\" tires

Dang Shaggy, are the words "short version" even in your vocabulary? [img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif[/img]

Marc
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  #6  
Old 11-29-1999, 08:24 AM
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Default Re: 10 bolt front / 12 bolt rear ok for 38\" tires

And thank you Shaggy !!! I ran 44's for almost 3 years on a 3/4 ton 10 bolt GM Corporate front axle and have had zero problems. 8.5" ring gear is pretty stout even with stock shafts!! I have a 14 bolt full floater(Detroit Locker&4:56.1 gears)in the rear and wouldn't change it for the world. 38's are donuts compared to 44's and that is what I am running now. And if you want stress I have an 88 Suburban(THATS BIG)!!!!!!

BIGBURB
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  #7  
Old 11-29-1999, 08:58 AM
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Default Re: 10 bolt front / 12 bolt rear ok for 38\" tires

I run a Dana 44 in front and a GM 12 bolt in back. I have 35s now, but I ran some 38.5s for a while. I believe that the biggest problem is throttle. If you can analyze a situation, and determine when to get on the power, you can make anything last. Sensible driving saves so many parts, but it all depends on what type of wheeling you do.
Mike


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Old 11-29-1999, 11:34 AM
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Default Re: 10 bolt front / 12 bolt rear ok for 38\" tires

<font color=purple> Honestly, I think you'll have more trouble with the 12-bolt C-clip rear than you will with the 10-bolt front. But, I agree that judicious use of the throttle can prolong the life considerably. Should you decide on the 3/4 ton stuff, keep in mind that a 3/4 ton 10-bolt is no better than a 1/2 ton 10-bolt & you should get 16" rims NOT 16.5's if you plan to run less than about 25 lbs of air. You can run as large as a 38X12.50 TSL, R85 Buckshot (same basic size as 38X12.50) or 38.5X11 Bogger if you get 16" rims. </font color=purple>

TEX

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  #9  
Old 11-29-1999, 12:51 PM
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Default Re: Answer: IT DEPENDS.

Depends on what you do with the truck. If you are going to rockcrawl. No. Don't put 38s on them. If you are talking mud. Go for it. You probably won't have any problems unless you run lockers in mud then you may break something occasionally. I've researched this swap basically for the same reasons Shaggy looked into it. The weight issue and ground clearance were important things for me to consider. The C-clip 12 bolt rear end is not really very strong although Warn does have a full floater kit for it now with alloy shafts. If you break a c-clip axle without the full float kit, the wheel falls off. Just something you should know. Another problem with the 10 and 12 bolt is that they have crush sleeves. With a locker installed in the diff, this could be a problem. Open diffs probably won't matter. Someone recommended putting a 44 carrier inside the 10bolt. Unfortunately, the 44 carrier isn't all that strong for serious off roading either, and most people will tell you you need a detroit locker or some other carrier that is stronger than stock. Be leary of 3/4 ton dana 60 fronts and most rears. The axle shafts are no larger than dana 44's 30 spline 1.31" diameter. The only advantage is that the pig is bigger. The 1 Ton front Dana 60 is actually 240 lbs. heavier than a 44, and most have 1.5" 35 spline shafts (except newer models). If you do get a rear 3/4Ton 60 that is only 1.31" diameter 30 spline, you can always upgrade everything else with alloy shafts 1.5" diameter 35 spline if you upgrade to a 35 spline carrier as well. Replacing everthing in a front 3/4 ton for 1 ton stuff would get expensive fast, so just buy a 1 ton to start with unless you find a 3/4ton equipped with 35 spline 1.5" diameter shafts. Just my 'pinion,
Sean


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  #10  
Old 11-29-1999, 04:17 PM
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Default Re: Answer: IT DEPENDS.

Thanks for the info. Has anyone swapped for 1 ton parts and is it difficult?

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