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Old 03-22-2001, 08:25 PM
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Default how to install coil springs on on a 4x4 ford f150?

COuld someone give some tech tips on putting on coil springs for a f150 4x4. I'm installing the lift myself and the rest is pretty simple but where do I start in taking those off. ANybody got any experience in installation of them.

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Old 03-22-2001, 11:30 PM
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Default Re: how to install coil springs on on a 4x4 ford f150?

Once you get started I think you will find the springs to be one of the easier things to change. As to the spring-there is a small u-clamp at the top of the spring that retains it to the spring bucket-very simple to remove. The bottom is retained by a large nut on top of a stud that goes through the radius arm and axle halve. Once the nut is off there is this little retainer plate to slide off the stud and then the spring. When you do this you may want to un-bolt the little u-clamp at top first then jack it up slowly until the axle hangs enough to free it-then you just put stands under the frame and work on the lower nut-easy. After the new axle pivot brackets are in place you can slip the new springs in. You'll want to make sure you have at least a grinder or air chisel for the rivots on all the brackets-a torch would be better though. We're here for ya man. Laters.

NUFF SAID
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Old 03-23-2001, 12:22 AM
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Default Re: coil springs

You have to disconnect the shock so the axle can droop enough to unload the spring, but don't rip the brake lines off. The big nut at the bottom is 1 1/16" and Liquid Wrench will make the job easier. Anti-sieze compound will make it easier next time.

Steve 83 Bronco 4.9L
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Old 03-23-2001, 01:19 PM
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Default Re: coil springs

Also on the driver side lower radius arm bolt that holds the bottom of the radius arm to the I beam, there is that bolt on the bottom and there is the big bolt on the top that hold the spring in place. When loosening the bottom bolt try not to break the weld inside. I put to much torque on this bolt and the nut welded to the inside of the ibeam came loose, so I have to take the axle off to get a new nut and tighten it down. It was just a pain in the ass. The passenger side one came off fine with tons of torque but the passenger side gave out on mine. Could be different on yours though
never know. Liquid Wrench does help a lot though. I let that stuff sit for one day and holy cow those bolts came loose so much easier. On the Axle Drop Brackets, be careful if you use a torch, as oil can catch on fire. Try to find a small grinder so you can get to the studs easiler or the right adapter for the air chisel with the curve at the end to get under the rivets and pop them out. Good luck. It is actually kinda of fun. I just did my lift this christmas break and it was very cool. I want a bigger truck now

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Old 03-23-2001, 01:33 PM
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Default Re: Broken weld

A good welder should be able to tack that nut back down if you pressure-wash the inside of the axle housing and steer hard to the side with the broken weld (driver's - left) so he can get to it. There's nothing in there that will be damaged by weld spatter except the axle seals on the knuckle and diff, but you can shield them with aluminum foil. Just don't let him weld the nut to the bolt![img]/wwwthreads_images/icons/laugh.gif[/img]

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Old 03-23-2001, 11:31 PM
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Default Re: Broken weld

If you aren't replacing the radius arms then you don't even have to worry about that. If you didn't order new arms then you are probably confused by the above advice because it isn't in any of the instructions

It's a Jeep thing? My Bronco thing will run over your little Jeep thing.

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