Key switch problem 91 f-150

[Jacob_Royer]

The rod that goes down the steering columm to the ignition switch (rod on mine is on topside of columm), Anyway it quit working i put a new key tumbler piece in and it still isn't working right I noticed before it quit that I really had to turn the key hard to get it to start. I moved the ignition switch for temp where I could stick a bent coathanger in to start it. Anyway does anyone have a cut-away diagram of the columm or know where I could find one? Haynes manual doesn't tell me crap and I don't want to start tearing crap apart until I see what it looks like then I might have a good idea of what broke in there and can go buy parts beforehand.

I dont' have a diagram, and I haven't been THAT deep into the column, but you're either gonna need the rod itself or there's also a pot metal "cam" which gets actuated by the key switch. I'm sure it's gonna be one of these two pieces.

You can get down to where you can see the cam with simple hand tools, snap ring pliers and a steering wheel puller. IIRC once you've removed the turn signal switch you can see it, but to replace it you've gotta go deeper and I'm no help there.

Point being you could tear it down this far in maybe 30 minutes taking your time if you really want to determine which of the two parts you need. But I'd just go buy both the rod and the cam and then go for it.

The tilt pins require a slide hammer, but that's about all I know.

It isn't very hard to get to at all. This thread should help you.
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[Jacob_Royer]

Thanks for the info! It doesn't sound as bad as I thought. I will pick up some snap-ring plyers. I have a dampener puller and it will pull some stearing wheels but I will have to see on this. Also my cruise control buttons got real sticky where you had to push em real hard to work. now they dont work at all is there an easy way to fix this while I am in there?

I not sure about the cruise control buttons. I haven't had any problems with mine, but you can get to them real easy by taking the cover off of the steering wheel(two screws on the back). You may be able to clean them out or get some other ones from a salvage yard.

[Jacob_Royer]

Well I've finaly fixed it sigh..... Now I know why the dealer wants so much to do it!! The part is only $8.99 but it is a royal pain in the ass to fix with a tilt coluum. Might not be so bad at all in a non-tilt. Here is a walk through for anyone else that ever has to endure this.

Tools needed. Philips screwdriver, Flat head screwdriver, Snap-ring plyers, Vise grips, hammer, stearing wheel puller(My harmonic dampener puller worked on mine), Ratchet 9/16,5/8,1/2 and 1" sockets. a assortment of machine screws. Needle nose plyers. Alen wrenchs

Remove the front cover of the steering wheel off the screws are on the back of it. Remove the nut holding the stearing wheel on and remove wheel with puller. Unscrew turn signal lever and remove turn signal switch (2 screws) now unplug the turnsignal switch harness its at the bottom of the coluum and you can pull it out of your way enough to finish the job. Now remove the first section of collor thers are 3 screws holding it in. Next take the needle nose plyers and pull the drift pin at the bottom of the tilt lock. Now run the machine screws into the threaded drift pins on both sides that the assembly pivots on. Now to pull the pins clamp vise-grips on the screw and lightly tap them out with the hammer hitting the vise grips as close to the collum as possible. use snap ring plyers too remove the center bearing and now you can pull off this assembly.( watch out for the large spring) Now remove the fuse box cover and remove the 2 bolts holding the coluum up. Now use the alen wrench to remove the 3 screws holding the last collor in place they are on the backside of it. Now remove the ignition switch from the coluum. You can now slide the broken actuator and rod for the ignition switch out. Re-assembly is alot easier than taking it apart believe it or not. Make sure and take your time and not loose any parts. I don't recomend this job for people with little paitence. It took me about 3 house from start to finish. Good luck to anyone else that has to mess with this. Any questions feel free to ask.

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[WilliamA]

I'm glad I found this post...thanks to all that contributed!!

Had this occur in my wife's 89 Bronco. She said the key was really hard to turn before it wouldn't start.

I replaced the ign. switch down on the steering column first. Once I found that that was not the problem, I replaced the key lock (with a new Ford part), and that didn't work. And just as everyone else seemed to find, there are no instructions on going into the steering column in the Haynes manual.

The instructions given by everyone on this post and it's related links was a great asset!

Just to mention a problem I ran into was with the part that I got from the local parts store. It was a HELP item. I had to do some grinding on this part to get it to fit where it would work properly. I even went back and bought another one thinking that this part was bad. Not! Same thing occured with the next one I got. The problem was that the part was not machined enough to allow it to slide in the tracks. Very tight!

Anyhow, I just wanted to mention this. I'm not sure if it would be better to get the part from Ford or if they both get this part from the same source.

Thanks again everyone!!!

[skylarkman]

Hey I just fixed this on my 88 Bronco it was a breeze.. only thing is i didnt take the drift pin outta my tilt I just used a pair of pliers and pushed up on the tilt arm and the whole assembly poped right off, reverse install was easy as cake... only problem is my tilt dosent work now but I think i know whats wrong with it

[Steve83]

Here are the exploded diagrams, for anyone who may need them in the future.

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[WilliamA]

The "Ignition Actuator" part number is 83280. This is a "HELP" part.

Sorry, I forgot to include this in my post!