IFS removal/engine bearing replacement

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

You can change the 3.0 rod bearings from below, but you can not change the 3.0 main bearings from below without pulling the tranny too. The main bearing cap(s) are really one piece, and the rear end is captured above the rear main seal retainer. I'd still rather pull the tranny and IFS stuff and do it from below than pull the engine.

Some notes on safety: Before starting, set your parking brake and block rear wheels. Use jack stands and so forth...

OK! Step one is shift it into 4 wheel drive (the auto transfer case may need the vehicle running, to engage the front drive shaft), lock one hub and go to the other side.

Remove the end cover of the locking hub (make sure it's unlocked when you remove it, it makes things easier) then remove the bolt that's in the end of the axle, then replace the hub cover with 2 bolts, and lock it. Go to other side and repeat, only you don't have to put the hub cover back on.

***If you have a strap wrench you may be able to just wrap it around the axle and get the bolt out of the end without messing with the t-case/locking hubs. ***

Now take a tire off and loosen the 6 nuts around the base of the locking hub. Some people have had good luck with a punch or small screwdriver, but I use a hammer and tap on the side of the hub body where the cone washers are and they seem to pop right off. (leave the nut on the end, or they will fly off) After you take the locking hub body off there is a c-clip around the axle that needs to be removed or it will not come out.

Next unbolt the front end of your drive shaft (mark the diff flange and the shaft so it goes back together the same way).

Drop the brush guard, then unbolt the 2 ends of the sway bar from the A-arms. Mine both just broke off because they were very rusty, but I have noticed very little difference with them not hooked up.

Remove the 6 nuts holding each CV axle to the diff. (the bolts have splines and are pressed into the diff flange, so they will not turn) I used a wrench on the bolt and a socket on the nut side, and just let it turn till the wrench is against something. It is suggested to strip, or remove the splines. When nuts are loose you can put the ratchet or a breaker bar on the stud side with a hub or the t-case locked and if you apply enough torque they will most likely start to strip out the splines, I suggest grinding the splines however, keep reading for more info.

***You can do this before removing the locking hubs, and they will not turn, but then you have to go unlock a hub, turn the axle, lock the hub, get back under and do the other nuts. ***

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Now comes the 2nd hardest part. Getting the diff and CV axles out (first hardest is getting them back in)

The diff is held in with 3 bolts one into the front cross member, and 2 going up on either side behind the axle. All three have nuts on the other end and are easiest with some help. Leave the front one in it till the 2 rears are out.

***The bolts pressed into the axle end flanges can be pressed out with a big C clamp and a deep (17mm I think) socket, this makes pulling the diff, or the cv axles a lot easier. It is suggested that you grind the splines off the studs, and inside the flange with a dremel or such before putting it back together. This will allow more clearance if you need to work in the area again, it also makes it possible to change the CV shafts without totally disassembling the steering knuckle etc. You would just unbolt both ends and cut the steering wheel to clear the shock and drop them out. If you don't own a dremel you could always go to your local hardware store and replace the hardware with Grade 8 or above bolts, locker washers, and nuts.***

Here's where help really comes in handy, also some bailing wire. You have to wiggle the diff around till you can get one of the CV axles enough room to get it above the diff flange then the diff will come down and out easily, but it's heavy (about 80lbs), so keep fingers out of harms way.

Once the diff is out the axles can slide out, but you have to turn the wheels to the left to get the right axle out and to the right to get the left one out. This is so the axle will slide past the shock.

***If you were trying to get the axles, or differential out, then you’re finished! ***

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Bearing replacement:

I had to unbolt the upper end of my steering stabilizer in order for the pan to come down. (22RE) Which is the next step!

Remove pan bolts (drain oil first) the pan may be a little hard to get down once it's loose because the oil pickup tube is in there. I had to stick my head up and peek in to see what was going on.

There are 3 bolts holding the oil pickup tube in. Remove those and you are ready to start replacing bearings. The rod bearings are pretty easy to get out and in, you can remove the rod cap, and just turn the crank down away from the connecting rod with a ratchet to get the upper bearing out. Repeat 4-6 times!

For main bearing removal (22R/RE only) I’ve found that you can turn the crank and get some of the upper bearings to turn out, but you may need to make a tool out of something soft like copper to help slide them in and out.

Assembly is pretty much the reverse order. Wire the CV axles up out of the way while getting the diff back in, help is really recommended for that. Do the locking hub jig to get the bolts in the ends of the axles tight.

[mudrunner88]

***Note: When changing the bearings toyota usually stocks 5 standard size bearings all within thousands of an inch from each other. You could easily look up the clearance specs in a factory service manual, and then head to your local parts store and get some green plastigauge (different colors for different sizes). With the old bearings in still lay a strip across the crankshaft and put the cap and bearing back on and torque to specs in the manual. Then loosen it again and meausre with the plastigauge chart and compare to your limits in the manual. This is your oil clearance, if the clearance is too tight you get no oil, if it's too loose you will get a "spun bearing". With this info and a little math you can find out what replacement size to get from your dealer. If it's within spec (or close if the bearing is worn some) the bearings are numbered, simply remove it from the cap or block and look on the back side of the bearing near the lock tab. They should be numbered 1-5 usually just replace with the same size. If you are not in clearance you could simply get the next bearing up or down from what's numbered, but if you want to know for sure you can get a micrometer and measure your old bearing and then do the math. FOR EXAMPLE ONLY: Standard Rod clearance could be .021mm through .053mm with a max clearance of .07mm you want the middle of that range usually which is around .042mm so lets so your plastigauge strip was .076 you are out of max tolerance but you know the middle range for the standard size. .076 - .042 = .034 + (size of the worn bearing after you mic'ed it) = the size of the new bearing you need! Just look on the manuals chart or ask a dealer what the five sizes are in mm's not inches. Then you can pick and choose for each cylinder! You can only do this with Toyota bearings, aftermarket parts sell them all in matched sets.
Another thing to keep in mind is these bearings and clearances so very small, a grain of sand or a small shaving of metal can score your bearings and destroy the crank shaft. If you can run a fingernail across the crank journals (mains) or crank pins (rods) and your nail gets caught on anything chances are you need to remove your crank and have a machinist grind and polish it. If this is the case the machinist will tell you what size bearings to purcahse and he should do them as a matched set.

See photos below for plastigauging and where to locate Toyota bearings size stamps.